18th May 2004 | A Curt Refusal

Posted on May 18, 2004


Montbell Gloves
Woke up to the conversation between the first team and Cdr.Dam on the Motorola.Spoke with Bhanoo and was given furthur directions on what to do about my finger (left hand ring finger).

The team’s pace was good, Vikas was lagging behind though.Kankan Sir, Cdr Dam and I with the Sherpas left for Camp 3. I went slow and was wearing the Mont Bell gloves on my left hand and used the hand sparingly.The climb on rocks without crampons was also difficult. Sun caught up with me at the ice patch. She told me she was not well. I offered Oxygen and she refused. Met the Korean leader just on the stretch.

Just when I reached the tent, Cdr Dam told me that he has decided not to take me for the summit because he felt that my body was not coping with the 8000+ altitude.I requested him to check me out tomorrow/tonight as he goes for the summit in the first hour. He curtly informed that he had taken a decision and it was final.

Had a difficult time getting down – was tired. Bhanoo had increased my Oxygen to 3 l/min when I told him that I was weak.Came down with Bhanoo, Rakesh and Vikas.Bhanoo went down to North Col, rest of us stayed at C2.

Dead tired and had a bad cough.I even suspected HAPE. Put Oxygen to 1 and slept.

Posted in: The Journal, Week 9